Excavator long arm cracking is a problem that many people encounter, because as the main working part of the excavator, basically, every action has to be emphasized. Modern steel smelting technology has been well developed, but it has not been applied in all aspects. Under the action of time, it can still ensure that the steel is not deformed, torn, or worn. So what exactly causes cracking? What can we do to solve it?
1. Using a barrel that exceeds the capacity of the original barrel. For example, if a 10-ton excavator uses a bucket of more than 20 tons, it will cause the large and small arms to work abnormally and crack. Therefore, each model should use a storage bucket with the original capacity.
2. The driver operates in the wrong way. Excessive force when digging hard and heavy objects, digging with force, using the excavator as a crane, lifting heavy objects, etc. are all causes of excavator big and small arms cracking.
3. Long-term overload work will cause fatigue damage, especially when working in the mine. Cracking of the extension arm and the big arm of excavators is more common. Do not overwork for a long time. A high workload in the mine may lead to the excavator's broken arm.
Long-Reach Boom
1. The weld must be cleaned before welding.
2. A certain amount of preheating must be carried out before welding.
3. The welding must choose the appropriate welding materials.
4. The welding must ensure the depth of melt.
Long Reach Excavators Booms
In general, since each excavator breaks in a different way, here is a brief explanation.
The broken part is a little in front of the movable arm cylinder lug seat. Continued work is not recommended to prevent continued tearing and safety accidents.
Step 1. Cut off 180mm to 200mm of the side plate from the left and right side of the crack, and about 150mm of the lower cover plate depending on the width of the side plate.
Step 2. Lay a liner under the broken cover plate, weld it, and weld the crack of the cover plate. The welding process should be smooth and free of air bubbles.
Step 3. After welding, according to the blue part of the side plate cut in the first step, cut a piece of iron plate again according to the size and weld it on, and put a liner inside. The liner should be longer than the sealed side plate.
Step 4. After finishing the previous step, the bottom cover is not sealed. Until the bottom cover is sealed, still use the liner. Why? Why do you keep hitting the liner? The liner is simple, rough, and effective. After completing the liner and sealing the bottom cover, the repair is basically complete. You can then sand over the paint and putty.
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